Ann Arbor, Michigan, Oct. 5 — It’s a cloudy, dreary day in the Midwest, raining early but then warm enough to keep the coat off. In other words, it’s midseason Big Ten football weather. After some early roadgeeking, I was on my way to see the winningest football team of all time on its Homecoming. Michigan and Minnesota were playing for the 100th time with the Little Brown Jug on the line.
The Jug is one of the few things in college football that was around before Iowa State won its last conference championship. The Michigan football program has the most all-time wins in NCAA Division I-A. Michigan Stadium is one of the Cathedrals of Sport that followers of college football have on their bucket lists. I have been to Michigan Stadium once, in 2002, before a renovation that expanded the press boxes and luxury suites and before the stadium was closed to the public on a daily basis. I wanted this day, seeing a football game in the stadium, to be special.

After studying the parking options online, I figured my best bet was to park in the northeast corner of Ann Arbor and take a shuttle bus. Although I was literally on the second bus to leave, I got to the stadium only 45 minutes before game time. It’s on the bus that I heard a Minnesota fan remark that coach Jerry Kill suffered a seizure and will not be at the game.
The gate area and concourse were filled with people. I came in at the entrance beside the Crisler Center and checked out the pillars listing every Michigan championship in every sport. There are many pillars, and many engraved years. Nearly every spectator was decked out in maize or blue.
And no one is wearing a sundress.








Bronze relief of Abraham Lincoln inside the 